WHAT DID JOSHUA SPOONER DO?
Joshua was an abusive man, according to Bathesheba and no amount of money could make her see past that. So on the night of March 1,1778 she enlisted two other soldiers to help Ezra beath Joshua to death and throw him down the well.
BATHESHEBA\’S LOVER WAS ONLY 16!
Her lover couldn\’t kill Joshua, even though she gave him the poison to do it and opportunities more than once. So she enlisted the help of two British soldiers who were AWOL. They gladly accepted her invitation, she told Ezra who came to help.
She was convicted, claimed she was pregnant and was given a examination. They did not find evidence and hung her. She was the first woman in America to be executed after the Declaration of Independence was signed.
So keep thee from the Evil woman, from the flattery of the tongue of a strange woman. Neither let her take thee with her eyelids. There are a thousand dangers, that poor young wretches are in by reason of the snares & traps which are everywhere laid … particularly the poor beardless youth not quite 18.
July 5, Rev. Ebenezer Parkman
So yesterday evening yet another drunk fella hit yet another power pole in our street. That is one thing that is bound to always happen around wine nation: When you live in a zone that produces something alcoholic as its essential yield, you will pull in individuals who jump at the chance to devour liquor as their essential nourishing product. With expected outcomes: Knock down a power pole, flee the scene and yet, repeat this process again.
Be that as it may, these few hours of total blackouts give an incredible chance to see how our relief skills function, particularly when I am all alone. My friend went on a business trip to Oregon 2 days ago, so when the drunk fella did it last night, it was around 7:30 pm and I was all alone in the house.
So thinking back on the few hours with no electricity, I got a few things right and of course, a few things needed upgrading and improvement.
To begin with, props to me for:
1) Having enough oil in the backup lights, and having them in an easily locatable space, in addition to knowing precisely where the battery-operated candles were kept.
2) I had kept all the wax candles in a single zone.
3) I effortlessly found the pipe lighters.
4) I knew enough about the generator that I could easily use it when it was daylight
5) I successfully brought in some solar oriented lights from outside as well as tea lights, to illuminate the less critical areas of the home.
So every one of that was great but gave myself a few thumbs down for:
1) not being sufficiently comfortable with the generator to start in the dark.
2) not knowing how to re-anchor the automated garage entryway in the wake of opening it physically.
3) not having oil, lamps, lighters and candles together in one place, so I would have had to go to just one place to pick up everything. Another thumbs down for not having plasma lighters with the hurricane lamps as well as the candles.
4) not having a clue as to where the extra gas for the generator was kept (fortunately it was filled with fuel so there was no need for more).
5) not charging all my gadgets. A 100 percent charge on my kindle and my phone would have been ideal for messages and emergency calls, and also would have kept me busy while I wait for the power to be fixed. I owned a portable charger, which was incredible, however, as opposed to using it on 50 percent charged gadgets it would have saved me some power to completely charge up everything
6) not having all the tools I would have required if there were a real emergency strategically placed and easy to reach. A real emergency would not have given me the time to head to the basement to look for a wrench to put out the burning gas.
Clearly, if the disaster happens during the day, you ideally have a few hours before its nighttime. However, I’ve come to notice that disasters such as this one tend to happen at night so it would be lovely to always be prepared.
I took in a great deal from this little preliminary drill and will make a few enhancements in the days to come.
How prepared would you say you are for a genuine catastrophe?
Perhaps one of the most important things when keeping geckos is their food and diet. Incorrect food and diet can cause some health problems for your crested geckos.
What food for geckos should be fed and how often? This post will give you some basic information about food for geckos that ensure your pet will live a long happy life.
Commercial food in captivity
In captivity, the crested gecko can live healthily by only eating commercial food. This is the premix powder that provides enough nutrients that their bodies require and a healthy base for their diet.
Powder will be blended with water for crested geckos eat. With commercial, crested geckos do not need any live food, but you can also feed them as treat foods.
Live insects for crested geckos
In the natural, crested geckos mainly eat insects, so it is the good food that you can feed them a treat. Some examples of insects for geckos are butter worms, cutworms, locusts and crickets. Do not feed them any insects that bigger than the gap between their eyes.
Not only commercial foods and live foods can be the food for crested geckos. In the wild, geckos also prefer to eat fruits and nectar. So in the enclosure, your geckos should be fed sweet taste baby food and fruity flavors. Sweet baby foods such as peach, banana, apricot, pear can be mix with their diet and offered as a treat.
Noticeable things when feeding crested geckos
Crested geckos require fresh, clean water that does not contain chlorine all the time.
Feeding crested geckos commercial food once a day at night, and remove excess food in the morning.
Also feeding insects at night but not frequency. They should be allowed to eat live insects only 2-3 times per week and do not forget to remove excess insects the next morning.
Covering insects with a calcium supplement before you allow your geckos to eat them, adding in some vitamin supplements once or twice per week.
Note: Using the best reptile humidifiers to create an ideal crested geckos moisture will make them more palatable.
The temperature of the environment is very important for fish because they are cool blooded animals. Which means that they are not able to adjust their body’s temperature by themselves.
For example, almost tropical species are request temperatures around 75-80 degrees F. This is the reason that you need a heater in your aquarium.
The heater will replicate the temperature that is the same as the fish’s natural environment. Speculate onbest aquarium heater.
There are two types of heater that most popular for normal home users: In-line and submersible aquarium heater.
In-line can be attached within the filters or between the walls of the tank. Using in-line makes your aquarium neat but it is also more expensive.
The submersible heater is placed underwater and should be placed near the filter. It may cause some clutter and cumber with your fish.
#2 Heating power
Choosing heating power depending on the capacity of your aquarium and the number of degrees that your fish requests.
It is obvious that the bigger your tank is, the high the level of heating power it needs. The average power that a heater provides is around 25W to 300W.
You must be attention that if you use the high power heater for a smaller tank, it may overheat the tank and kill your fishes.
If the heater is not durable, they would most likely explode. Besides, in the case of large and strong fish that can break the heater, buying a high-quality heater is very important.
The heater normally made of glass but you should choose strong plastic or very think glass that can suffer from certain conditions.
#4 Extra features
It is so great if your best aquarium heaters come with some extra features such as a thermometer or a thermostat.
If you are keeping chicks by hatched them of buying them, you will need to move them to the warmer place, where has consistency temperatures. After the chicks have just hatched, they are small, weak and vulnerable.
To ensure your chicks will comfortable and warm enough during that early lifetime you need to move them to the brooders.
What is the brooder mean?
The best chick brooder is the place of safety where you provide for baby chicken a proper temperature and care for until they are grown enough to care for themselves.
You should prepare a brooder for your chicks long before they actually need it. It should be well set up and warmed before they arrive whether you hatched or bought them.
Size of the chick brooder
How many chicks did you have will determine the size of the brooder? If you give them a cramp, crowd addition, they might jostle for warmth and cause to the risk of suffocate.
You will have two options to choose from. One you can use a small brooder initially. And after 2-3 weeks, when they are bigger, you will need to exchange for the larger brooder. Or the second choice is to use a large brooder from the beginning, which is suitable for them even when they are bigger.
Easy to clean
Ensure that even if you bought all the equipment new, you should wash it by disinfectant or soapy water, do it before the next new lot gets to use. These things need to do with seriousness to remove any bacteria that can be contained in the brooder and harm your baby chicken. Buying the brooder that you can easily removable to cleaning efficiently.
The types of chicken brooder
There are many types of brooder are available, they work differently and give different results such as electricity, charcoal, wood, methane, etc. But the most common and effective brooder that we recommend you is electricity.
Whether you are living in the city or in the countryside, raising your own chickens today is no longer a difficult task. It also becomes an interesting hobby for many people.
However, de-feathering chickens are always tedious and extremely waste your time if you trying to pluck the feather by manual.
This is why chicken plucker can come to handy. The plucker will help you save much of your time and effort. It also does the job impeccably and easy to clean. But it might not be easy to get the right chicken pucker, which will meet your needs.
In this post, we will introduce Kitchener chicken plucker to you, this product has already been highly appreciated and popular in many markets.
The first thing you should know about this product is it is coming from Kitchener. Kitchener is known as one of the bigger kitchen appliance manufacturers nowadays. This best chicken plucker is a heavy-duty product and made of high-quality stainless steel that prevents it from rust and corrodes.
This product of Kitchener uses 92 soft fingers in a large 20 inches tub. It does not only work effectively on remove kitchen feather but also remove dirt that may stick on the kitchen skin.
At the same time, the tub of this plucker can contain 2-4 kitchens in less than 2 minutes, which means it takes about 15-30 seconds for each chicken. With this speed, Kitchener kitchen plucker is ideal for large-scale farming.
If you have a larger farm, you must be concerned about how portable the plucker is.
Kitchener kitchen plucker also comes with wheels, which will allow you to move it around easily and using even if there is not electric source or electrical wiring nearby
Irrigation becomes one of the most important standards for modern plunker that you should consider after buying. There is a built-in irrigation system in this product. It will help you to remove the feather after de-feathered
One of the most considered elements on ball python enclosure environment is the substrate. The ball python comfort will depend heavily on the material of its substrate. However, there are some factors that should be looking for when finding the appreciate bedding for your ball python.
This post is our two picks for the best substrate for ball pythons: Zoo Med Aspen Snake Bedding VS Repti-Chip.
#1 All natural and safe
The first factor that should be considered when it comes to the best ball python substrate is all-natural and non-toxic materials. Any material might harm your pets or cause irritation to skin and eyes for them will need to be removed.
Zoo Med Aspen not only all-natural but also has a fine texture that safe for your pets. There is the problem that can come from aspen bedding is that the chips are large that may cause the digestion issues if your pet swallowed.
However, Zoo Med Aspen has overcome this shortcoming, it offers much smaller chips, which safe for your pets if they happen to ingest. But this thing also should be avoided.
Repti-chip is made of quite large chips. You should always careful when feeding your ball pythons on this substrate since it could cause digestive issues.
#2 Maintains humidity
Ball python needs a warm and humid environment. So the best bedding for ball python should retain humidity and does not forget to mist the cage to increase moisture.
Repti-chip is great at promotes the right level of humidity. Moreover, this product is anti-bacterium. That means you will not concerned about mold growing on the substrate.
Zoo MedAspen absorbs moisture very well. However, if the aspen is left damp for a long time and does not be maintained in the proper way, it will grow mold.
#3 Absorbent materials
The other important aspect of the substrate is to absorb liquid waste of your ball python.
Aspen can be considered as the most absorbent among all the substrate types. It is also has a natural woody scent that keeps the tank clean and fresh smelling.
Repti-chip is also the product that has been known as does a great job of not only absorbing liquids waste but also smells as well.
Although leopard geckos are one of the easiest reptiles to care for, keeping leopard geckos in captivity can be a challenge for every beginner. In order to keep them stay healthy and happy, you have to provide the proper environment in enclosure.
These things below are leopard gecko supplies list that will help you recreate the leopard gecko natural habitat.
#1 Leopard gecko cage
It is obvious that the cage is one of the most important leopard gecko supplies that you should purchase on. Unlike crested gecko, leopard geckos more prefer to live on the ground than in the tress.
They are not too interested in branches or climb. Therefore, they will need a horizontal cage.
You should give your leopard gecko at least 10 gallons tank. If you keep a couple of leopard geckos, this tank would be at least 15 gallons.
#2 Leopard gecko substrate
The best substrate for leopard geckos should not contain anything can cause irritation to their skin and eyes. It is better to be easy cleaning and replacing.
There are some materials that you should avoid to use for leopard geckos are sand, cedar, pine, hardwood chips, gravel, cat litter, sawdust, etc. It is recommended to use special clay, artificial turf, paper towel, and newspaper as leopard gecko substrate.
The accessories that you place in their cage can encourage them to do their natural habitats such as climb and exercise. Leopard geckos would like to hind in the shelter place during the daytime.
Live plants, fake plants, hide boxes, overlapping rocks are some things you can give them as a place to hide and sleep.
#4 Leopard gecko temperature and lighting
Leopard geckos are nocturnal animals. Therefore, it is important to set up the day and night cycle in their captivity. During the day, the temperature in the leopard geckos cage should be maintained between 80-85 degrees F. Nighttime temperature should be around 70 degrees F.
In the summer, your geckos will need to receive 14 hours of daylight and 10 hours of darkness. In the winter, you should allow sleeping 12 hours per day and 12 hours of darkness.
You will need to purchase on the heat lamp (or heat pad), red, or blub bulb to lighting at night. Do not use while light in the leopard geckos cage.
As a red eared slider lover, I know that you may want to look for new types of foods to feed our pets. Apart from their common food and commercial pallet, there is a question has always intrigued us the most: What human food can I feed my red eared slider turtle?
Turtles are omnivores which means they can eat pretty much everything. But, before feeding your pets with any human food, you have to ensure that they are safe to eat the same food we consume on a daily basis. It is our responsibility to provide them best red eared slider food.
You may realize that your slider love to eat fish. Fish are their primary source of quality protein and they also have numerous advantages as they contain omega 3 fatty acids, they are rich in calcium and phosphorus, and importantly they are a good source of minerals.
So treating your pet turtle to a small fish snack every now and then is a good idea. growing turtles need the vitamins and nutrients that can be found in feeder fish livers. However, you also have to careful with what kind of fish you are feeding your slider.
Some type of fish that contain high level of fats can lead to vitamin E deficiency in turtles. Some safest type of fish to give your turtles are bluegills, crappies, and bass.
Fruit is absolutely good food to feed your slider as it helps improve slider’s overall health and reduce the risk of disease. Fruit is not only rich of vitamins and minerals, but they are also high in fiber, as well. You just need to ensure always washing the fruits before you give it to the turtle and chopping fruit before feeding them.
If you offer any fruit at all, limit it to very small quantities as a special treat. This is because fruit isn’t a natural staple in the red-eared sliders diet and it may cause diarrhea.
Meat is rich of protein, which is an essential nutrient, highly necessary especially for younger sliders. Even though meat is good for turtles, there are also disadvantages from meat. Feeding too much meat and over-protein can post a rick of metabolic bone disease for slider. It’s caused by too much protein and not enough calcium in the turtle diet. The protein contents can also contribute to kidney disease in your turtle. Use meat as very occasional treats in a feeding tank.
Vegetables is one of the staple food in red eared slider diet. Especially for adult slider, where vegetables should make a majority of their diet. There are not lots of rules when feeding vegetables, you just should not give them vegetables that don’t have nutritional value.
If you have seen a lot of chicken coops reviews but still can’t choose the best one for you, or simply you are limit in the budget, let’s thinking about building a chicken coop by yourself.
Don’t worry if you cannot read the chicken coop plants since they too technical or you are not a kind of skillful person. Your chickens do not care about if the corners are square or not, they also do not need a pretty coop. All the requirements of your chickens are the sheltered place, dry, keeps them safe and warm.
With basic woodworking skills and an easy-understand plan with the most essential things for chicken, building a chicken coop is not really hard.
What are the features that a DIY coop should have?
Whatever types of coop you are plan to build, it needs to contain these essential factors below:
Enough space for your chicken comfortably eat, sleep and some other activities.
Protect your chickens with the best chicken predator deterrent.
Easy to clean, sanitize with great drainage.
How big should your coop be?
The size of your coop is dependent mostly on what types of chickens you have. Basically, if you plant to coop them all the time, they will need at least 10 feet square per chicken. But if they are allowed to outdoor, each bantam requires at least 2 feet square; the standard large fowl will need 4 feet square in a coop per one.
There is one notice that those things up to here are minimum space requirements per bird. If the conditions permit, it is always better to build a bigger chicken coop. You won’t know if at some point you will get more chicken than you can imagine at the moment.
How do you create good ventilation?
Ventilation plays an important role in building a chicken coop. In the summer, the hot air will be pushed out of the coop by the vents, keep the coop cooler. In the winter, it maintains the warm air and pushes moist stale air out.
You should place the vent up near the ceiling, above the chicken heads.
If you are living in colder zones, with each 10 feet square of the floor, it will require a feet square of the vent. In the warmer zones, you will need to create more vent to maintain the coop temperatures.